Greece: The Vikos Gorge

The Vikos Gorge and the Zagori villages

In the far north-west of Greece, a little south of the Albanian border, the limestone landscape of Zagori sits at odds with most people's idea of the country. There is no coast here, no white-washed cubes against blue sea. Instead: green mountains, wildflower meadows, stone villages built from the rock they stand on, and the Vikos Gorge — claimed, with some justification, as the deepest in the world. Eighteenth-century cobbled paths still climb the cliffs, linking villages that once relied on them. Arched packhorse bridges span the rivers below.

The walking is the draw, but so is what walking here means: an unvarnished corner of Greece where the cafes serve homemade orange cake and baklava mid-morning, and the trails are quiet enough that you may have the gorge largely to yourself.

Walking the route

This is a self-guided holiday, with three options — six, five or four nights. The full route covers 10-15km a day, between three and a half and six and a half hours' walking, and the grade is genuinely demanding in places. The descent into and traverse of the Vikos Gorge itself, on day three of the six-night version, is the headline walk and harder underfoot than many people expect. The reward is a feeling of being properly somewhere remote.

The other signature day climbs above Mikro Papingo to Astraka refuge and on to Dragon Lake, with views past the Papingo Towers that walkers consistently describe as the highlight of the trip. Days move between villages — Vitsa, Kapesovo, Papingo among them — across stepped stone paths that have been in use for centuries. Wildflowers in early summer; golden eagles, if you're lucky. In Papingo, shortening options are available if you'd rather take an easier day.

Bases, food and the pace of the trip

You stay in family-run accommodation in the villages, with bags transferred between them. Hosts are flexible: early breakfasts or packed breakfasts are easily arranged if you want to set off in the cool of the morning. Food is a quiet pleasure of this trip — fresh, local, often memorable. Past walkers single out the table at Joanna's in Kapesovo. Wines are good and unfussy.

The itinerary can be adjusted to fit flights and transfers, and most travellers add a night in Ioannina, the lakeside town that was the seat of Ali Pasha, on the way in or out. Several have said it exceeded expectations and is worth more than a passing stop. Some pair the trip with a few days on Corfu afterwards for genuine rest, which makes sense — Zagori is not a relaxing holiday, even if it is a deeply rewarding one.

Practicalities and who it suits

Prices start from £810 for the four-night route, £915 for five nights and £985 for six. Accommodation, luggage transfers and walking notes are included; the format leaves you free to choose your own restaurants and adapt days as you go. On Foot Holidays also provides an app that walkers find genuinely useful day to day, and light on phone battery.

This trip suits experienced walkers who want elevation, distance and a sense of independence, but with the logistics handled. It will suit you less well if you want short, gentle days or beach time. For those it does suit, Zagori tends to become one of those holidays people talk about for years afterwards.