Castles of the Rhine

The Rhine Gorge between Bacharach and Koblenz is one of those rare stretches of European river where the romantic clichés actually hold up. Castles do appear around every bend, vineyards do tip almost vertically down to the water, and the barges genuinely do shuttle past in a slow, hypnotic procession. This six-day self-guided walk traces the UNESCO-listed gorge along its high paths, dropping into riverside towns at the end of each day.

Walking above the Rhine

The route runs from Bacharach in the south to Ehrenbreitstein, the great fortress above Koblenz, in the north. Days are 11-20km, three to five and a quarter hours, with the option to shorten any stage to 7-14km by hopping on a train, bus or river ferry — useful if the previous evening's Riesling has caught up with you. The pattern is consistent: a stiff climb out of the valley first thing, then easier walking through the high country before a long descent to the next village.

That high country is the surprise. Past walkers single out the wheat fields and wildflower meadows above Bacharach, Oberwesel and Sankt Goar — flat, open ground with gazebos sited at the best viewpoints, a world away from the river traffic far below. You pass the Loreley rock, look down on the toll castle of Pfalzgrafenstein marooned mid-river, and walk through forest sections that feel a long way from anywhere before the next ruined keep appears through the trees.

Where you stay

The accommodation is the point of difference here. Several nights are spent in castle hotels and historic inns rather than standard town hotels — Braubach's Zum Weissen Schwanen is mentioned often by past walkers, as is the simple pleasure of finishing a day's climb at a place with a proper dinner and a view. Dining is a la carte at recommended local restaurants, with Riesling from the slopes you've just walked through.

The towns along the way — Bacharach, Oberwesel, Sankt Goar, Braubach — are small, lived-in places rather than tourist showpieces, though the gorge as a whole sees plenty of river-cruise traffic in high season. Spring and early autumn tend to be quieter and pleasanter underfoot.

The practical side

This is a self-guided trip: On Foot Holidays book the accommodation, move your luggage between hotels, and provide route notes, large-scale maps, GPS files and a navigation app. Past walkers consistently flag the documentation as a strength, including ferry and train timetables for the shortening options and restaurant recommendations for each overnight stop.

The 7-night route starts from £1145 per person and includes six walking days plus one rest night; an extra night in Koblenz at the end is worth considering if you want to see the city or the Ehrenbreitstein fortress properly. Start dates are restricted, so check availability early. The walking is rated moderate — manageable for anyone reasonably fit, with the early climbs being the main test of the day.

It suits walkers who want comfort, scenery and a bit of European history without long days on the trail, and who like the idea of finishing each afternoon somewhere with a wine list worth lingering over.