About this trip.
Canal du Midi closed for drought: VNF suspended navigation on the whole Canal du Midi, from Toulouse to the Étang de Thau, from 9 November 2026 to save water after this year's drought. The canal's usual maintenance closure runs from January to March; check reopening dates with your hire firm before booking early spring. Source
Before you book: Canal du Midi vs UK narrowboating — same week, different country, very different holiday · How we vet operators — and the questions you should ask any small-group operator yourself
Agde, at the end of the canal
Agde sits on the Mediterranean at the end of the Canal du Midi. It's called the "black pearl of the Mediterranean" because its monuments are built from basalt, and it's known for the Criée aux Poissons du Pays d'Agde, the local fish auction. The town has 14 km of beach to enjoy before or after your time on the water.
Three canal structures here are worth a look: the round lock, listed as a historic monument; the Pont St Joseph, which is also listed; and the Hôtel Riquet, once the canal's administration building. The boats at this base can be hired without a licence, so you can take the helm yourself.
Across the Étang de Thau to the Camargue
Heading east, you cross the Étang de Thau, a stretch where river cruising meets open lagoon. On the far side you join the Canal du Rhône à Sète on the edge of the Camargue. Other routes from Agde follow the Canal du Midi itself.
Weekends and mini-weeks from Agde
The weekend option is one way from Agde to Colombiers: 31 km, 12 locks and about 8 hours of cruising. There are two mini-week return trips. Agde to Aigues-Mortes and back covers 154 km, 6 locks and 20 hours. Agde to Capestang and back covers 86 km, 24 locks and 18 hours.
There are three one-way mini-weeks. Agde to Homps is 86 km, 17 locks and 15 hours. Agde to Colombiers via Marseillan is 51 km, 18 locks and 11 hours. The third runs from Agde via Carnon to St Gilles and back to Carnon, covering 148 km, 3 locks and 19 hours.
A week or longer on the water
A week gives you three return options. Homps and back is 172 km, 34 locks and 30 hours. Narbonne and back is 146 km, 44 locks and 30 hours. Saint-Gilles and back is 208 km, 6 locks and 28 hours. A one-way week to Carcassonne covers 126 km, 36 locks and 25 hours.
With two weeks, you can cruise to Carcassonne and back: 252 km, 76 locks and 50 hours. Or you can take in both Beaucaire and Béziers, returning to Agde between them, which comes to 290 km, 12 locks and 42 hours. For three weeks or more, the round trip to Castelnaudary covers 332 km, 124 locks and 70 hours.
The shape of the trip.
Everything you might be wondering.
Q1Do I need a licence?
No. The hire base gives you a short handover covering steering, locks, and safety before you set off. Speed limit is 4 mph on UK narrowboats — slower than a walking pace. If you can drive a car, you can drive a canal boat.
Q2How many locks will I do?
Depends on the route. The Llangollen has about 20 over a week — leisurely. The Caen Hill flight on the Kennet & Avon has 29 in one stretch — a full day's work. Some European routes (Canal du Midi, Camargue) have almost none. The operator's map shows lock counts per day so you can pace yourself.
Q3Can I travel solo?
Most hire companies require two adults on board, mainly so one person can work locks while the other steers. A few allow solo hire on quieter routes — ask the operator before booking.
Q4What's included?
Typically the boat, fuel for the engine, a handover briefing, mooring ropes, fenders and a starter pack (tea, coffee, washing-up kit). Bedding is sometimes included, sometimes £10-20 extra. Food is your own, shopped from towpath-side villages.
Q5What if something breaks?
The hire base has a 24/7 support line. A fitter will usually come out within a few hours. Engines are robust and well-maintained — the most common failures are blocked weed hatches (clearable yourself) and flat domestic batteries.
Q6Is it good for kids?
Yes — lifejackets are provided and kids love working locks. Older children (6+) can help steer under supervision. Toddlers need constant watching near open decks. A reinforced guard rail helps.
Q7Can I bring my dog?
Most hire companies allow one or two dogs for a small supplement (£20-30 per dog per week). They love the towpath walks. The boat will lose its deposit if the dog damages upholstery — bring a blanket.
Q8What about cancellation?
Typically a 25% deposit at booking, balance 8-12 weeks before departure. Each operator has its own cancellation ladder (steeper close to departure). Travel insurance with cruise cover is recommended.
Three canal holidays, side-by-side.
The two closest canal holidays on Mooch, both in France. Prices are the operators' own, per boat.
